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How to Replace a CV Axle (Including Freeing the Inner Joint)

Replacing a CV axle is a satisfying job because the result is immediate — the clicking that has been annoying you for months simply stops. The work itself is moderate difficulty. The parts that catch people out are freeing the inner joint from the transmission and getting the axle nut torque right. Before You Start Tools: socket set including a large socket for the axle nut, breaker bar, torque wrench, jack and axle stands, pry bar, hammer, penetrating oil, and a drain pan. A ball joint separator or pickle fork is often needed. Look up the axle nut torque for your vehicle before starting. As with wheel bearings, this figure matters and is not generic. Buy a new axle nut. Many are single-use designs with a staked or locking feature, and reusing them is unreliable. Have transmission fluid on hand. Pulling the inner joint out of the transaxle usually spills some. Know what type your transmission takes and have enough to top up. Complete Assembly Versus Rebuilding You can buy boot kits and rebuild a joint, but for most people a complete axle assembly is the better choice. It arrives with both joints, fresh grease and new boots correctly installed, and it removes the risk of reassembling a joint with contaminated grease. Rebuilding makes sense mainly when only a boot has torn and the joint is genuinely still quiet and undamaged — catch it early and it is a legitimate repair. Step 1: Loosen the Axle Nut on the Ground With the vehicle on the ground and the wheel loaded, break the axle nut loose. The vehicle's weight holds the hub still against what is often considerable torque. If the nut is staked into a groove on the shaft, carefully unstake it first with a punch rather than forcing it — forcing a staked nut damages the shaft threads. Loosen the lug nuts while you are down there. Step 2: Raise and Support Raise the vehicle, support it on axle stands, chock the remaining wheels, and remove the wheel. Step 3: Remove the Axle Nut and Brake Components Fully remove the axle nut. Remove the brake caliper and hang it from the spring with wire — never by the hose. Remove the caliper bracket and the rotor. On some vehicles you can leave the brakes in place, but removing them gives much better access and makes the knuckle easier to swing. Step 4: Separate the Suspension to Free the Knuckle You need enough movement in the knuckle to pull the axle out. Depending on the vehicle, this means separating one of: The lower ball joint from the control arm The outer tie rod end The strut-to-knuckle bolts Check which approach your vehicle uses — taking the easiest route saves considerable time. If you remove strut bolts that carry a camber adjustment, mark their position first. When using a separator on a ball joint or tie rod, protect the threads by leaving the nut on loosely so the component does not drop suddenly. Step 5: Push the Outer Joint Through the Hub Push the axle shaft back through the hub splines. Usually it moves by hand or with light taps. If the splines are seized in the hub, thread the old nut back on flush with the end of the shaft, then tap the nut rather than the bare threads. Penetrating oil helps. Do not use a hammer directly on the shaft threads. Step 6: Free the Inner Joint From the Transmission This is the step that surprises people. The inner joint is held in the transaxle by an internal circlip that you cannot see. Position a pry bar between the inner joint housing and the transmission case. Apply a firm, sharp prying action. The circlip releases with a distinct pop. Pry against the joint housing, not against the boot or the transmission's sealing surface. Damaging the case sealing surface creates a leak that is far more work to fix than the axle was. Have the drain pan ready — fluid comes out once the axle is free. On some vehicles the inner joint bolts to a flange instead of splining into the case. Those simply unbolt, and there is no circlip. Step 7: Remove the Axle Manoeuvre the axle out. Support its weight rather than letting it hang from either joint. Before fitting the new one, compare the two side by side: overall length, spline counts at both ends, ABS tone ring if present, and the inner joint style. This two-minute check catches an incorrect part before you have committed to installing it. Step 8: Fit the New Axle Fit a new circlip on the inner joint if one is supplied and not pre-installed. Lubricate the transmission seal lightly with fresh fluid. Insert the inner joint straight into the transaxle and push firmly until the circlip seats. You should feel and hear it engage. Verify it is seated. Pull on the joint housing by hand — it should not come out. An axle that is not fully seated can work its way out while driving. Guide the outer joint through the hub splines. Reconnect the ball joint, tie rod or strut bolts you separated, torquing to specification and returning any camber bolts to their marked positions. Step 9: Torque the Axle Nut Fit the new axle nut and torque it to the manufacturer's specification with a torque wrench. Do not estimate, and do not finish with an impact gun. On many vehicles the axle nut sets bearing preload, so incorrect torque shortens wheel bearing life as well as risking the axle working loose. If the design calls for staking the nut, stake it properly into the groove. Step 10: Reassemble and Check Fluid Refit the rotor, caliper bracket and caliper, torquing each to specification. Refit the wheel and lower the vehicle. Torque the lug nuts in a star pattern. Check and top up the transmission fluid. This is easy to forget and running low causes real damage. Pump the brake pedal before driving. After the Job Test drive slowly at first, including turns in both directions at full lock. The clicking should be gone. Check underneath for transmission fluid leaks at the axle seal. If you separated a tie rod or strut, get an alignment. Re-check lug nut torque after 50 to 100 miles. Common Mistakes Prying against the transmission case sealing surface. Causes a leak that is expensive to correct. Not confirming the inner joint is seated. The axle can separate while driving. Reusing the axle nut when it is a single-use design. Guessing the axle nut torque. Damages the wheel bearing. Forgetting to top up transmission fluid. Hammering on the shaft threads. Makes the nut impossible to fit. Before You Order the Part CV axles are side-specific — left and right are usually different lengths and are not interchangeable. They also vary by transmission type, engine and whether the vehicle has ABS. Confirm driver or passenger side, check the transmission variant, and match the fitment chart to your exact year, engine and drivetrain. Order a new axle nut and have the correct transmission fluid ready before you begin.